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For centuries, Taxco has been known for its silver mines and the silver objects crafted by its local artisans. To verify you have good silver, look for the government seal, which in Taxco bears a silversmith’s initials, his number, and the silver’s quality. Regular commercial silver ranges in grade from 925 to exclusive grades of 950 up to 980, which, in the latter case, means it is 98 percent pure silver. Pure silver is 999, but is too soft to work.
Taxco is the only place using this particular kind of government mark (with the silversmith’s initials). You’ll also find other legitimate marks that guarantee you are protected with your purchase. This system has been in place since 1989. Before that, it was hit or miss as to the authenticity of the silver. Falsifying silver is a crime punishable with imprisonment, so problems seldom occur today. There is no federal or local control on street vendors, however, and some have been known to use their own mark.
Most tourists are looking for a bargain, and there are bargains to be had. Vendors expect a friendly negotiation, but some buyers do not realize the work that goes into creating that straw basket, for example, that catches their eye with its different colors and unique design. In Oaxaca, basket weaving is an ancient art handed down through the generations. Whole villages make straw baskets. Children, some as young as 10 years old, are taught by their grandparents, not just how to weave fibers together with their fingers but also how to create designs, of which there are many. There is little fear that the art will be lost because many young people do not go to school to study. They are poor, and that is why they make baskets. The straw, which comes from a palm tree, is dyed, then hand-woven into a design. The next time you pick up a multicolored basket, take a moment to see the detail and consider the work that was involved.
Woven textiles are masterpieces in themselves. Textile products continue to be available in México, and Marina Mercado has a wonderful supply of serapes that can be used as wall hangings or even tablecloths. Tourists love the colorful hammocks, but it’s best to buy the double or larger size. Roomy embroidered smocklike dresses and blouses are also popular.
Archaeologists say that much of what they ultimately understand about ancient civilizations is based on pottery remains. Not only do pottery shards persist in soil long after other traces of a civilization disintegrate, but these remains of pottery also reveal much about a culture’s organization, level of sophistication, and aesthetic values. The process of molding clay, heating and then cooling it includes many phases. The simplest kind is called unglazed. It is so named because the particles have not been heated sufficiently to melt or form a glassy-smooth surface. With more heat, clay acquires a slight glaze and is called lustrous ware. If coated with a glassy coating, it is referred to as glazed ware. Beware of pottery containing lead, even though vendors will swear their pottery contains no lead. Stoneware is made of a high-silica clay and then fired so that it becomes hard and impervious to liquids. Among Mexican towns producing the finest pottery are Tonalá and Tlaquepaque, both near Guadalajara. From Oaxaca comes the famous black pottery, which is available in both glazed and unglazed forms. Puebla produces colorful and highly prized talavera pottery. All are available at Marina Mercado.
The history of Marina Mercado is almost as colorful as its wares. In 1984, approximately 60 artisans arrived in Los Cabos from the mainland and began selling their works from under palapas, palm-thatched structures that are popular throughout Los Cabos, and at the aptly called Las Palapas Módulo Turístico FONATUR. A union was formed by that group, and, in 1999, it bought land from FONATUR, the government agency that assists in promoting tourism. Two years later, with financial aid from FONATUR, the current building was completed. There are now 72 shops, 95 percent of which are owned by the union. Other local vendors have moved in and pay monthly rent to the union, which continues to meet on a regular basis. Juan Ricardo García Lopéz is president; José Efrain Cuautle acts as director; Esther Miranda Jiménez serves as secretary; and Manuel Forggoso Martínez takes care of the treasury. There is also another person with the title “conflictos.” As the name applies, he or she assists in any conflicts that may arise among union members. Elected officials hold office for one year.
The vendors at Marina Mercado are very proud of their reputation of offering protection and guarantees for their products. The facility is clean and contains separate baños (restrooms) for men and women. There is a grocery store, a liquor store, a coffee shop, a bar, as well as public Internet service and ATMs. Most vendors accept Visa, MasterCard, and American Express. The Mercado is open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Upon closing, all shops are covered with gray plastic sheeting that is tied down to protect the wares from dust and possible vandals. There also is night security.
Whether you are a tourist visiting México for the first time or a long-time resident, take a stroll through this traditional market. Once stalls are uncovered and doors opened, you will see heaps of hats, hammocks, and huaraches. That’s when the cross-cultural fun begins.
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