There has been little change in the Sea of Cortés itself since first seen by modern man. While efforts are underway to combat the recent depredation that has been taking place, the Sea of Cortés rivals anyplace in the world for the number and variety of life to be found in its waters. Close to the surface you can see massive shimmering and silver flashes of tightly packed schools of small sardines revealing themselves, catching the light of the bright Baja sun, swirling first one way, then another attempting to confuse any predators in the area. Also near to the surface cruise Dorado, dazzling in their neon blue, green, yellow and silver colored skin, as they await an errant sardine to loose its place in the swirling ball and become a tempting target for the Dorado. Small blue fish and green fish, black and yellow striped fish, orange fish and red fish scurry in and out of sight, looking to all the viewing world like someone is throwing vividly colored darts in all directions. Even though these fish swim deeper, they are visible in this crystal blue and aqua water, among the algae covered rocks and pink coral.
From tiny to larger and then to great, I am always amazed when I see a whale shark up close. These gentle giants of the shark world sashay along as they filter plankton from the water. The Sea of Cortés is one of only four areas in the world where whale sharks may be seen close up in shallow water. They are most common in the fall months of September and October but may be seen at other times of the year as well. These are fish, not whales. The whale part comes from their dimensions, reaching 60 feet in length and 50 tons in weight. Spotting one of these creatures, regardless if you are in the water with them or on top of the water in a boat, is an unforgettable event.
Witnessing giant manta rays flying and dancing above the surface takes a close second to encountering the whale shark. Whether you’re a diver or if in a boat, seeing one of these rays clear the water is awe-inspiring. Imagine, if you can, a creature with a wingspan reaching 24 feet and a weight over 2,000 pounds, literally soaring out of the sea! What kind of jet propulsion must the manta rays have! In 2002, there were 52 separate mantas identified in the southern Sea of Cortés. These rays all but disappeared, but then fortunately in 2005 more mantas appeared. They again are part of the richness of the world’s aquarium.
One man-made threat to this glorious sea is less fresh water entering the northern reach of the Sea of Cortés since the damming up-stream of the Colorado River. Changes in water salinity in the northern Sea may have a strong negative effect on the population of the rare and critically endangered Vaquita dolphin, geographically isolated for the past 15,000 years, and now lacking a supply of fish food. More water-born traffic, the lack of well planned development, and increased commercial fishing efforts have each added ecological stress to this rich body of water, enough so that there are now over 26 Mexican non-profit organizations dedicated to maintaining the delicate balance Mother Nature has managed to arrange. Except for the land development, this evolution is not noticeable to the untrained, and few are aware of the subtle and likely dangerous changes that have taken place in recent years. Subtle they may be, but far-reaching in consequences.
When you count in the itinerant humpback, sperm, gray, finback and killer whales; the many species of wonderful dolphins; the stunning schools of many varieties of sharks; the magnificent colors of the tropical fish; the celebrated Marlin; seals, sea lions, turtles, and birds, it soon becomes clear that the wealth of life in this clear blue sea is beyond measure, and lives up to its name as “The Aquarium of the World.” The sparkle, the wit, the amazement, and plenitude of the Sea of Cortés are nature’s gifts, ours to enjoy, savor and protect.