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The first beach location is at Hotel Rancho Buena Vista, the oldest fishing resort in East Cape. Traveling north from Los Cabos, you will pass by the entrances to the towns of Miraflores and Santiago on your left. (While fascinating places in their own right, we are focusing here on East Cape beaches, and these two towns are not on the coast.) Continuing north on Highway #1, you will come to a bridge across Arroyo Santiago at the little village of Las Cuevas. Shortly, at Km 106, look for a monument atop a tall hill on your left. The entrance to Hotel Rancho Buena Vista is across from that on the right side of the road. Turn right onto the dirt road leading to the hotel. At the fork in the road, stay left and drive to the parking area outside the hotel. Behind the hotel, you’ll be welcomed by the white-sand beach located within Rancho’s private cove. One of the oldest operating hotels around, Hotel Rancho Buena Vista was established in 1952. Drawn by the lure of large Marlin, Dorado, and the peace and quiet of the old Rancho, fishermen from all over the world came by private plane to the small, 12-room hotel in this remote location. Today, visitors continue to enjoy the privacy of Hotel Rancho Buena Vista, where they can spend a few pleasant hours strolling along white sands, sitting under an umbrella reading a good book, relaxing in Rancho’s swimming pool, or enjoying an unobstructed view of the southeastern shore of Bahia de Palmas from the historic Palapa Bar. By the way, Hotel Rancho Buena Vista is a family-friendly place. The food is fantastic and rates for the charming casitas are reasonable.
Looking for a more remote beach location? Getting there is a little complicated, but worth every turn. Back to Highway #1, turn right heading north from Hotel Rancho Buena Vista, past the community of Buena Vista until you come to the turn-off for Los Barriles, at Km 111. Look for the fountain, and turn right. At the entrance to Hotel Palmas de Cortés, turn left on 20 de Noviembre, and continue north through the village. After you have crossed two arroyos, you will come to a fork in the road. Go right off the paved road onto the old coast “highway,” a dirt road leading through the North Beach residential area. Approximately 5 miles on, you will come to a rocky hill on your left where the road becomes narrow, rough and a little steep in places, but no problem for two-wheel vehicles. Continuing north to Punta Pescadero, you will be afforded spectacular views of Bahía de Palmas. After approximately 3 more miles, you will see the Punta Pescadero Hotel on a bluff overlooking the Sea of Cortés. Just east of the hotel is a favorite fishing spot for local anglers. Stop at a small cove on your right just south of the hotel and you’ll find a rocky beach, perfect for a family picnic, a siesta, and a stroll through the warm waters looking for pieces of petrified coral. Although there are no facilities, you will enjoy the peace and quiet of this unique beach.
To visit Cabo Pulmo, follow the signs to La Ribera at Km 93. From Highway #1, turn right, heading east. You’ll notice that this sleepy village is blossoming with new building and some cute cantinas. At sign 7.0, you’ll be directed to the small village of Cabo Pulmo, which is 24 miles southeast of La Ribera, and the eastern most point of the Baja Peninsula. This drive is on the coast road that leads to San José del Cabo, but the road is not as “driver-friendly” as Highway #1. That said, a visit to East Cape beaches would not be complete without a trip to the Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park. One of the largest coral reefs in the world, this underwater ecological reserve is located off the beach at Pulmo. Cabo Pulmo is one of the most famous diving locations in the Sea of Cortés, however, fishing, spear fishing, and shell collecting are not permitted here, And do not even THINK about taking a piece of living coral reef. It is strictly prohibited to interfere with this natural preserve. Serious penalties will apply. If you’re not a diver, you can still thoroughly enjoy your visit to Pulmo. Marvel at the heads of living coral that can be seen immediately off the beach in only a few feet of the clear pristine water of the Sea of Cortés, relax on the beach, and take some time to enjoy the wonder of this place.
Visiting the East Cape is a seasonal experience. North winds between November and March make the Sea of Cortés a favorite among wind-surfers who find the shore in Los Barriles a perfect launching pad. The rest of the year, those who prefer less strenuous activities populate the beaches. Day access to most of the beaches along East Cape is not restricted. Often beach access is not marked, but if you’re adventurous, exploring dirt and sandy roads may reward you with magnificent and isolated beaches, where you can find yourself alone with only your thoughts and your footprints. Although camping may be permitted in some areas, like at the mouth of the arroyos, keep in mind that it is not permitted in front of hotels or homes.
If you prefer day-trips without doing the driving, options for you include both air and sea transportation and tours. BajaWild Ecco Expeditions offers full-day snorkeling and eco-tours to Cabo Pulmo, where you will be guided on a snorkeling expedition or scuba dive within the aquatic park that covers 45.75 square miles, with more than 220 different species of marine life, including ancient petrified corals, some of them 25,000 years old. (624) 142-5300. Transcabo, a premier destination management company since 1997, can personalize and design quality tours and transportation. Contact them for full details. (624) 146-0888. www.transcabo.com. There are several private yacht rental companies that will also customize your day trips to visit East Cape. Check www.loscabosguide.com for full descriptions and availability.
Rancho Buena Vista, Los Barriles, and Cabo Pulmo are highlights of East Cape, perhaps for their accessibility and facilities. However, there are countless beaches along this coast to explore on your next visit. Since the communities in East Cape do not have a Chamber of Commerce, the best place to ask questions about the beaches is at one of the ATV concessions on the main street leading into Los Barriles. And don’t be shy: Ask one of us East Capers and we will be happy to share some suggestions. See you soon!
By JoAnn Hyslop
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