This was Pericú land. These Indians had settled on the Baja Peninsula centuries before any pirates or Spaniards arrived. Frigate birds were part of the seascape then, as they are now. The birds, believing theirs were the only adequate skills, marveled at the Pericú’s dexterity in their boats as they fished. The Pericú people led a calm and peaceful life. That is, until the pirates showed up. In 1587, frigate birds watched the notorious pirate, Captain Cavendish, arrive from England and seize the treasures from the galleons that were on the trade route from Manila to Acapulco. For the next 140 years, Los Cabos was a pirate’s playground. Many of them, lured by this paradise, jumped ship and started a new life in Los Cabos. They intermingled with the Pericú, and even today, generations later, some Anglo names remain in Mexican families. Frigate birds circled above as the once uninhabited land began to populate.
When the Jesuits came in 1724 to spread Christianity, Indians were forced into labor to build missions. The missionaries believed it was their sacred duty to persuade the Indians to convert to Catholicism. Eventually, the Pericú rebelled against the padre in the San José del Cabo mission, and murdered him in 1734. Frigate birds were here to witness these atrocities, too. When we look around today, we see paradise, but history tells us that, even in this beautiful place, it was not always such an uncomplicated life.
In 1847, a flock of frigate birds watched as more outsiders invaded Los Cabos. The Mexican-American War had broken out on mainland México a year earlier, and the frigate birds circled helplessly as a menacing ship arrived. The U.S. Navy took control of the harbor and occupied the mission in San José del Cabo. Once again, foreigners tried to force their ways on the natives. In 1848, peace negotiations to end the War were concluded, and the occupying militia finally left. Modern México was free to establish its own culture and identity.
The next century brought Americans Ed Ricketts, a noted marine biologist, and John Steinbeck, a prolific author, along with a dedicated crew, sailing from Monterey, California, and arriving in Cabo San Lucas Bay in March of 1940. Intrigued by this mostly uninhabited land, they came to the Gulf of California on a much more peaceful mission. Their mission was to collect samples of the sea life in the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortés. The curious frigate birds followed as the old sardine boat neared Land’s End, and decided that this was not a threat to their land. The expedition fascinated the Cabeños and all the other Mexican people the Americans encountered on their journey. Steinbeck and Ricketts’ travels are chronicled and published as The Log From the Sea of Cortez.
As word spread of this very secluded and isolated place, more and more people were lured by the images of the book. With no other means of access, private boats and planes were used to transport visitors, many of notoriety and privilege, seeking peace and solitude. For some, sport fishing is what attracted them, and gave the frigate birds some competition for their meals. Eventually, intrepid travelers from north of the Baja border braced themselves for the sometimes treacherous drive on the old dirt road south 1,000 miles to Land’s End. The frigate birds were there to welcome the weary travelers who had earned the splendor we know today. The birds have always known this place, and have always been witness to its changes.
For mere human, the amazing bird’s-eye-view can be simulated, if not duplicated, with a variety of high-flying adventures you will find here in Los Cabos. Canopy Costa Azul was the first canopy operation in Los Cabos and features a grand total of just over three miles of cable of descent. Surrounded by cacti and desert trees near San Jose´s Palmilla development, the longest zip line here looks out over the ocean as well as the designer golf courses nearby. Tours leave every three hours, beginning at 9 am, 12 pm, and 3 pm. Price is $88 US per person. www.canopycostaazul.com (624) 105-9311.
Appealing to hard-core thrill seekers with views of everything from the Sea of Cortés to the arid desert that encompasses it, Wild Canyon Ekopark has several activities taking place high above ground. Their zip line course sits 100 meters over pure desert sand and ranges 20-815 meters in length in all, the perfect choice for those wanting to start small and gradually increase their adrenaline rush. Wild Canyon´s Dive Bomb is compared to a giant swing, shooting across the desert from a suspended gondola, and The Big Plunge allows guests a bungee jump over the arroyo at El Tule Bridge. Prices range $85-$95 US, with tandem rides available for less. Free transportation from your hotel. www.wildcanyon.com.mx (624) 144-4433.
Take to the sky with your own wings aboard Cabo Sky Tours´ ultralight, motored, airplane. Accompanied by a pilot with more than 6,800 hours of experience, passengers can choose from tours lasting between ten minutes and two hours, priced between $75 and $400 US, based on number of people, weight, and tour package. The shortest tour will allow you to hover 700 feet over the Cabo San Lucas Bay and its famed Arch, with additional tours going around to the Pacific side, the Tourist Corridor, and even into San José Del Cabo at a height of 2,000 feet. (624) 144-1294.
Cabo Expeditions gives beachgoers the opportunity to soar in the sky without leaving the sand too far behind. Parasailing tours take participants over the most beautiful scenery in Cabo: the popular Médano Beach and expansive Bahia de Cabo San Lucas. From around 200 meters above the activity-rich beach, you’ll capture the essence of the area and perhaps even some really great photos. Fly either alone or in tandem with someone you love. A ten-minute tour runs $50 US per person or $100 US in tandem. www.caboexpeditions.com.mx (624) 172-0290. Reservations required.
From the usual to the unique, CaboRey has tours and activities that cover the spectrum in Los Cabos. The parasailing tour gets you 600 feet off the water around the Cabo Bay, and has four tours daily: 9 am, 11 am, 3 pm and 4:30 pm. A five-minute “quickie” will set you back $25 US, with the standard parasail ride of around ten minutes for $35 US, single, or $60 US in tandem. A really superb aerial view can be achieved via CaboRey´s helicopter tour. Twelve-minute tours cost $95 US with private, personalized options also available. Trips include Los Cabos, Todos Santos, and even up to La Paz. Location information is provided by pilot as you head across the horizon. Helicopter tours depart from the Cabo airport at 9, 10, and 11 am and 3 pm www.caborey.com Phone: (624) 105-1976.
Today, with Los Cabos one of the premier resort destinations in the world, fun-seekers look for that same incomparable bird’s-eye-view that the frigate birds have always known. Flying overhead is a perfect way to see beautiful Los Cabos, and you don’t even need feathers. You may be able to feel like you are flying like a bird, but remember that it’s still easier for frigate birds to catch fish!
