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After sunset each night, in villages, towns and cities throughout the country, children gather to reenact Joseph and Mary's journey to Bethlehem. The procession is led by a young Virgin Mary, often atop a live burro, with a tiny Joseph at her side. They're followed by children dressed as angels, the Reyes Magos and an assortment of shepherds and livestock. Singing traditional Christmas hymns and carrying candles, they proceed to the first designated house, where they plead to be admitted. They are turned away. They're refused admittance at the second home as well. At the third home, they are told that while there is no room for them in the inn, they are welcome to take shelter in the stable. At this point, the doors are thrown open and the children are bid a jubilant welcome. Everyone kneels around a manger scene, or el nacimiento. Prayers and songs are offered in thanks to God.
Immediately after is the time of the piñata, where the children are blindfolded and take turns to smash open the papier-mâché container filled with candy and toys. When it breaks, goodies scatter to the ground and the kids dive in, scooping up as many as they can. Then comes the food and ponche.
Midnight on Christmas Eve is when Christ's birth is proclaimed with fireworks, the ringing of church bells and the blowing of whistles. Afterward the people surge into the churches to attend mass before heading home for a Christmas feast of tamales, rice, chiles rellenos, menudo, roast pig or turkey, along with ponche. This punch has been a holiday tradition in México since colonial times. Its origins are both Spanish and Moorish and it's a tasty, dramatic addition to any Christmas or New Year's fiesta. Serve it without alcohol or give it a kick or piquete by adding rum or tequila.
"EL PONCHE"
(Hot Fruit Punch) Serves eight.
• 2 pears, peeled, cored, and cut in thin slices
• 3/4 cup raisins
• 1 pound guava, quartered
• 3 (3 to 4-inch) pieces sugarcane, each cut in strips
• 1/2 cup raisins
• 1/2 pound crabapples, peeled and cored
• 2 cups (1-inch) diced pineapple
• 1 cup sugar
• 8 (2-inch) pieces Mexican cinnamon
• 8 cups water
• 8 shots Tequila or Light Rum (optional)
In a large pot, place the fruit, sugar, cinnamon, and 8 cups of water. Bring to a boil and lower heat and simmer for 1 hour. Serve hot in a mug with a shot of tequila or rum. Be sure each mug contains some of all the fruits.
Article by Ann Hazard.
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