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—Baja California Sur is remote enough to have been spared the negative effects of modern agricultural technology. There has been almost no soil contamination here, and farmers learned to plant certain crops in proximity to one another so as to discourage pests, maximize production and keep the soil healthy.
Organic farming started first in the early 1990s in the town of Pescadero, just south of Todos Santos and about 40 minutes north of Cabo San Lucas. The area’s large supply of underground water and its rich soil made the experiment an instant success. Soon, Todos Santos area farmers began to cultivate their lands similarly, and as Los Cabos grew into the mega resort that it is today, more and more land was cultivated to provide the freshest produce to area hotels and restaurants. Now the East Cape farming villages of Miraflores, La Ribera and Santiago provide a large percentage of the needed produce. According to Mauricio Tassier, owner of Gastronómica Los Cabos, local distributor of organic produce, these cape areas are better suited to farming because they’re closer to the mountains, the climate is cooler, and they get more rain.
Major crops grown in Baja California Sur are basil and other herbs. Many varieties of tomatoes are produced, along with red, yellow and green bell peppers, all types of chilies, zucchini and sunflowers. Basil is cut in the morning, preferably before sunrise, packed around midday and delivered fresh to restaurants in the afternoon. Flor de calabaza—the decorative, edible orange zucchini blossom that adorns many gourmet dishes—closes at night and reopens the next morning, so it has to be cut before sunrise. It stays fresh longer when it’s closed. Herbs and flowers are picked early to conserve moisture.
Tourists and residents of Los Cabos have an opportunity to shop at local organic markets in San José del Cabo each week. On Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., there is a market at the Tropicana Jockey Club featuring organic products and homemade breakfast. From 8:00 a.m. until 3:00 p.m. every Sunday, farmers and artisans from all over gather at the basketball court next to the church in La Playa, the fishing village that is now Puerto Los Cabos. It can be a real cultural event with lots of merchandise for sale.
Los Cabos also is famous for serving up the freshest bounty from the sea. Of locally caught fish, cabrilla (sea bass) and huachinango (red snapper) are in greatest demand by restaurants and hotels. Among shellfish, shrimp rank highest. Two other popular fish caught locally—tuna and dorado—may only be caught by sports–fishing boats; it is illegal to catch them for commercial sale. However, there are now special farms where these species are raised legally. Young fish are caught out on the open ocean in zones where commercial fishing is allowed and transported to the fish farm. There, they are fed on sardines until they mature, at which time they are harvested.
The local fishing fleet manages two daily shifts. The first pangas leave at 4 or 5 a.m. and return at 10 or 11 a.m. After the fish are caught, they’re immediately put into coolers with seawater and ice. During shipment from the boat to the restaurant, the cold chain is never broken so as to ensure the freshest, tastiest fish. The late shift of fishermen leaves around sunset and returns late at night. Their catch, chilled and salted, remains overnight in the warehouse and is delivered to clients in the morning. Chefs prefer to buy whole fish as a way to ensure freshness and quality.
As Los Cabos continues to attract sophisticated visitors who appreciate fine food, and restaurants respond with talented, creative chefs, the need for fresh, quality produce grows. Promoting organic farming helps ensure the future of Baja California as well as provides unsurpassed fare for diners in Los Cabos.
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