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The history of Mexican winemaking goes back almost to the very first arrival of Hernán Cortés in 1519. However, the narrative really begins in 1597, when Hacienda de San Lorenzo was founded. Although not the first winery in the Western Hemisphere, this winery was the pioneer in commercial winemaking in México. It is located in the northeastern state of Coahuila.
Baja’s first winery––Bodegas Santo Tomás—was established in 1888 on the vineyard of the former Dominican Santo Tomás mission. The mid–1990s saw what is now known as a renaissance of quality in Baja wines. Baja winemakers started planting internationally–known grape varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon alongside the traditional, local grape varietals such as the Mission grape and finally turning their efforts towards quality rather than quantity.
Currently, there are at least 25 well–established vineyards operating in Baja. The four largest are Domecq, L.A. Cetto, Bodegas Santo Tomás and Monte Xanic. Several boutique wineries such as Adobe Guadalupe, Casa de Piedra and Chateau Camou are currently producing small–quantity, high–value wines.
In Los Cabos and across the country, owners of wine bars and restaurants are becoming more and more enthusiastic about promoting Mexican wines on their wine lists, helping to build a national wine tradition and identity. Among the locals who always have Baja wines in their cellars are Pitahayas Restaurant at the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar, “C” Restaurant at the One&Only Palmilla, Sancho Panza behind the Tesoro Los Cabos Hotel and—with some of the area’s best values and the expert advice of their sommelier––El Chilar in San José del Cabo.
If you want to take some home, Baja vintages can also be found retail at La Europea and Tutto Bene, among others. The prices may seem somewhat elevated, but the quality is high. After centuries, with Baja wines, it’s a tradition as well as a living legacy you’re sipping.
––Anna Urbanik
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