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The Colorado River empties into the northern end of the Sea of Cortés. This area is flat and shallow, with a heavily silted bottom and tides that vary by almost a mile between highs and lows. Increased commercial fishing pressure and agricultural development in California, Arizona and Sonora have threatened the water’s purity and caused a decline in many species of marine animals. The giant totuava, once the pride of the San Felipe area, is now extinct. Illegal long–line fishing—particularly by the Japanese—threatens other species of sea life as well.
The lower portion of the sea, from the Midriff region south, is a deep trough or rift between the continental blocks that comprise the American continent and the Pacific shelf. The initial drop is about 2,500 feet, but by Latitude 23 (just south of Los Cabos) the depth increases to about 4,000 feet. The waters here are warm—ranging from 68 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter to 88 degrees in the summer.
Most of Baja’s shoreline is inaccessible by road and largely uninhabited. Rugged islands dot the sea, surrounded by pristine bays. These islands are some of the world’s most pristine archipelagoes. Because of this and the abundant waters, this area has been of enormous interest to biologists since John Steinbeck wrote Log of the Sea of Cortez back in the 1940s. Jacques Cousteau referred to the sea as the “world’s aquarium.” It’s renowned everywhere for its sport fishing, diving, snorkeling, boating and windsurfing. There are even great surf breaks hidden away at secluded beaches.
The sea’s edible bounty includes shrimp, yellow fin tuna, dorado, red snapper and squid. Game fish include black and striped magnificent marlin, plus sailfish, and a plethora of tropical reef fish.
In recent years, the Mexican government has made efforts to prevent this rich sea from being fished dry. Much has been done to eliminate the devastation caused by gill net fishing. A program called “Sueltame” which means "Release Me!" has made it fashionable for anglers to release their big game fish rather than have them stuffed to take home as trophies. The government has also designated an area off Cabo Pulmo on the East Cape as an underwater national park. Divers and snorkelers are welcome (but no one may fish) in this 10–mile–long by three–mile–wide park covering the only living coral reef in western North America. In between coral and waving meadows of seaweed, swim needlefish; angelfish; navy blue damselfish; tiny polka–dotted, spiny blowfish; pale turquoise, lavender, green and pink parrotfish; silvery triggerfish; poisonous pufferfish; moray eels; countless, tiny, darting fluorescent fish and the occasional game fish.
Located at the southern end of the Sea of Cortés, Los Cabos is the perfect place to enjoy its warm, calm waters. Visitors can indulge in world–class sport fishing. You can motor out to Lover’s Beach at Land’s End in a Jet Ski or parasail right from Médano Beach. There are tours by land or sea to kayak and snorkel in the crystal clear waters, both in Los Cabos and further north in Cabo Pulmo. Taking a sunset cruise is a popular way to enjoy a happy hour at sea, and to do whale watching during the winter months, as many different species of whales visit us this time of year.
There are several weeklong adventure and wildlife cruises that depart from Cabo, heading north as far as Loreto to explore the Sea of Cortés, its geography, geology and marine life. I did this recently on a ship that held only 100 passengers. Every morning, we awoke to a dramatic sunrise over the water and every day we anchored off a different island. We cruised among schools of dolphin, saw them chasing tuna and then they were chased by orcas. We snorkeled with sea lions. Between Loreto and Puerto Escondido we were treated to a whale show the likes of which the crew had never experienced before. We saw countless blue whales, blowing, rolling and showing their flukes. One even did a belly roll under our bow. Sperm whales showed up too—about seven or eight—and they put on a half–hour breeching show for us.
The Sea of Cortés is a wonder in and of itself. Whether you get a small taste of it here in Cabo or take a longer cruise like I did, it’s always beautiful and it’s always an adventure.
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