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Dining and Nightlife Articles
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Spirits - Tequila
Premium Spirits on the Rise
By John E. Bragg
Travelers to Mexico experience a tangible energy that belies the slow pace of life and the congenial hospitality found there. The loquacious people, colliding color combinations, piquant food, and compelling music, reveal this aspect of Mexican life. Nothing, however bares the Mexican alma (soul) more quickly than tequila, the fiery national drink that reflects the true essence of Mexico.
Unlike trendy recreational drinks, tequila has roots reaching back to the third century, when many pre-Hispanic Indian cultures used pulque, a fermented agave juice, in their religious ceremonies. The common denominator in the transition from pulque to mezcal to tequila was the ubiquitous agave. Growing on every continent except Antarctica, over 100 types of agave are found in Mexico.
In the sixth century, Spaniards had learned the art of distillation from the invading Moors, and in 1521 they imported this convivial technology to Mexico. With their imported Middle Eastern alembic stills they were able to convert weak, beer-like pulque into a high-octane distilled spirit called mezcal. No sooner had the Spanish arrived in the Americas, than their stills quickly began cooking, but the transition from mezcal to tequila would take over 300 years.
Today, the quality and origin of tequila is carefully protected by the same international regulations that guard other alcoholic products of specific origin such as Cognac, Scotch, and Champagne. Legally produced tequila must meet the following rules: all growing, processing, and aging must take place within the region, and the tequila sugar source must be a minimum of 51% blue agave. Tequila labeled 100% blue agave must use only the juice of the blue agave as the sugar source and bottling must be done within the region. Collectively, the tequila region includes the state of Jalisco, a narrow band of the bordering states of Michoacan, Guanajuato, Nayarit, and a small area in the state of Tamaulipas.
There are two broad categories of tequila. The first is 100% agave tequilas, which are made only from the blue agave. The second is the mixtos, which contain at least 51% blue agave based sugar, the other 49% coming from other, less expensive sources of sugar. Within these two categories there are five classes. Blanco (white or silver) tequila is not aged at all, joven (gold) is generally a mixto tequila that is artificially colored and flavored, reposado (rested or aged) has been aged in oak barrels from two to 12 months, and añejo (extra aged or vintage) has been in barrels for a minimum of one year. A new class of tequila, recognized by NOM (Norma Oficial Mexicana), and in effect since March 2006, is the extra añejo (ultra-aged). Aged for a minimum of three years in oak casks, these tequilas reveal flavors of toast, caramel, vanilla, honey and toasted almonds.
According to CRT’s (Tequila Regulating Council) Gerardo Hernandez, the extra añejo class was created to accommodate the already existing market of tequilas aged for more than three years and worthy of a separate classification. Many of the tequilas, which, at the time of production, were labeled as añejos, now qualify as extra añejos. “The producer may use the term extra añejo on the label if the product meets the requirements of the aging period (three years), or he may use the term añejo, since the norm indicates that añejo tequila should be aged for at least one year,” explains Hernandez. Echoing the footsteps of the vodka industry, ultra premium extra añejo tequilas are now becoming very “in.” Beautifully bottled and boxed, they appeal to collectors and those seeking to make an impression. Recently released, Cabo Uno Añejo Reserva ($200$250 U.S.), Sammy Hagar’s Cabo Wabo 100% Blue Weber agave tequila brand, although labeled añejo reserva, technically classifies as extra añejo. Aged in oak casks for over three years, it was introduced in a limited edition of 1,800 cases per year, with each bottle signed and numbered. New, from Tequilas Premium is Clase Azul Ultra ($1600$2200 U.S.), aged for a minimum of five years and presented in an attractive handmade decanter decorated with platinum, gold and silver.
Among other premium tequilas, consider any of the extra añejos aged for a minimum of three years such as Arette Gran Clase ($85$135 U.S.), Centinela ($95115 U.S.) or the recently released Partida Elegante (approx. $350 U.S.). Extra añejos aged for five years, in attractive bottles, but with differing tastes, are also excellent tequilas. Try Herradura’s Seleccion Suprema ($200$350 U.S.), Don Julio Real ($290$350 U.S.), Chinaco Negro ($200$300 U.S.), Siete Leguas D’Antaño ($150$200 U.S.), Paradiso by El Tesoro de Don Felipe ($100$190 U.S.) or Cuervo’s Reserva de la Familia ($80$120 U.S.).
Some extra añejos, such as Gran Centenario Leyenda ($220$250 U.S.) are aged for a minimum of four years, while Arette Unique ($70$120 U.S. for a 350 ml bottle) is aged for six years and Chinaco Emperador ($300$840 U.S.) is aged for seven years, more than doubling the required three-year aging period to classify as extra añejo.
To guarantee your tequila is authentic, look for the “CRT” label and the “NOM” number. These two stamps assure you the tequila has been produced according to law.
A trip to the Tequila region is an interesting experience, however, Los Cabos, far from tequila’s origins, offers an easier and more comprehensive introduction to a broad spectrum of fine tequilas properly presented by knowledgeable aficionados of tequila. Good places to start would be any of the well-known establishments recently awarded the prestigious Distintivo T by the Consejo Regulador del Tequila (Tequila Regulating Council.) At press time, these establishments included the Marquis Beach, Golf, Spa and Casitas Resort, Pueblo Bonito Los Cabos Resort, Hotel Finisterra, Dreams Los Cabos, Mi Casa Restaurant, Los Garcia Restaurante, Cabo Wabo Cantina, Tequila Factory Store Casa Cofradia, as well as Pancho’s Restaurant and Tequila Bar, which boasts a collection of over 500 tequilas. The Distintivo T award program certifies establishments that have demonstrated high levels of expertise in the knowledge of the history and production of tequila, the quality and size of their tequila offerings, and the proper presentation of tequila.
Whatever your choice, liberal doses of the “essence of Mexico” will make your days relaxing, your nights romantic, and life a new experience.
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Copyright © 2008- Joseph A. Tyson - All Rights Reserved - www.loscabosmagazine.com
Los Cabos Magazines Inc - Tyson Promotions, Inc - Promociones Tyson, S. A. de C. V.
Cabo San Lucas, Los Cabos, Baja California Sur, Mexico - Last Revision - 30 July 2007 - AAS
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