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For over 50 years, peaceful La Playita, just to the east of San José del Cabo’s estuary, was home to local Mexican families, many of whom made their living off the sea. Each day the men would muscle their pangas across the sand and through the crashing surf to angle dorado, tuna, amber-jack, sierra, and of course, marlin. They fished for the local mercado, restaurants, and with the occasional sports fisherman who was willing to defy death or disaster by braving a surf launch across the sand through the crashing waves.
One day several years ago, the village awoke to the news that it was to be transformed into one of the finest luxury home and recreation developments, unseen in México since Moctezuma’s fabled palace in Teotihuacan. Coming soon were golf courses, the largest marina in México, new beaches, condos, hotels and more. Bulldozers, dredges and armies of workers have been toiling to build paradise in their front yard ever since. Mexican developer, Grupo Questro, has magically transformed a lonely strip of sand fronting the sleepy fishing village of La Playita into one of Los Cabos’ newest beaches and recreational areas.
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The skeptical pangeros, given a choice, would have preferred to catch fish rather than chase golf balls any day. Now they have fancy docks, a business office, bathrooms rivaling Marriott’s, and three hurricane resistant palapas complete with billiard table-sized marble-topped fish cleaning stations all provided by the developer. Referred to as Fisherman’s Wharf (don’t expect it to be like the one in San Francisco!), these new facilities are proving to be a magnet for sports fishermen, with dozens of pangas and charters departing from the docks daily.
First light turns the calm sea a soft blue, while men catch baitfish the traditional way by tossing 8’ semi-circular weighted nets overhead into the water. Artfully thrown, the net blossoms into a huge butterfly before sinking into the sea, capturing what they will need for their day’s outing. Around noon, you’ll see the boats returning with their morning’s catch. Locals and restaurant operators often show up to buy fresh fish directly from the fishermen.
A new family beach has been developed inside the marina’s entrance. Sheltered from rogue waves and safely roped off from errant boats, it’s a perfect place to build sandcastles, and watch your 4-year-old run and play in the water. There are benches, bathrooms nearby, pole palapas, a play area, and parking for scores of cars just yards away.
Go east, past the family beach fronting Fishermans’ Wharf, and keep walking until the only footprints you see in the sand are yours. Open your umbrella; spread out your beach blanket; and pop the pops. This beach is the beginning of Baja’s legendary beaches that time forgot. They dot the coast all the way to the mouth of the Colorado River, over 800 miles north. One can spend a lifetime exploring remote bays and beaches along the Sea of Cortés.
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Next to the eastside marina entrance jetty, surfers and boogie boarders rip a surf break, while fishermen try their luck from atop the breakwater’s 50-ton boulders. Boys use the traditional soft drink can with a line wrapped around it, tossing the baited hook and weight out by twirling it around like an Argentine bola before letting loose.
Across the parking lot from Fisherman’s Wharf is the Plaza Civica a semi-circular open public forum with a stage used for political speech-making, movies on Friday nights, and as official headquarters during big fishing tournaments, such as the Governor’s Cup. A short walk away from the marina toward the east end of the arroyo bridge that leads to San José, is Wiricuta, a newly completed cactus garden center on three acres, featuring over 1,500 species of cacti, and facilities for weddings or special events.
The beach at La Playita is more than just surf and sand. The once controversial marina project and has turned into an eco-preserve itself with schools of sardine and mullet baitfish observed in the protected basin. New resident ospreys and pelicans enjoy a daily buffet. The beach areas, marina, new neighborhoods, and the old barrio, are inter-connected by thoughtful planning and design that aims to meet the needs of all. Dirt streets in the barrio have been paved, and boulevards lushly landscaped. People will eventually be able to park their cars at any one of several lots, and board a trolley to circumnavigate the marina, boat facilities, hotels, and a planned Mexican village with over a hundred boutique shops, restaurants, galleries and more.
A visit to La Playita Beach is a full day of fun for everyone. Here you can enjoy a variety of aquatic activities, convenient big-game fishing charter launch, golf, restaurants, accommodations or, if you really want to live your dreams, purchase a home or condo.
By David Mandich
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Copyright © 2012 - Joseph A. Tyson - All Rights Reserved - www.loscabosmagazine.com
Los Cabos Magazines, Inc. - Tyson Promotions, Inc.
Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur, Mexico - Last Revision - January 28, 2009 - fap
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