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26 Los Cabos Magazine | Summer 2016 1947. Stop for a rest in the 100-yearold church and enjoy the amazing natural light that shines through the colorful glass windows. From tacos to gourmet food, there are restaurants for every palate. Some, which are called fondas, offer family-style dining where you can taste simple, traditional Mexican food. Or you can dine on fine Italian cuisine at Café Santa Fe (www.cafesantafetodossantos.com); one of the first restaurants here, it dates back more than 25 years in the area. Caffé Todos Santos is a favorite of locals, especially for breakfast and as a bakery—stop in for a chocolate chip muffin—or a hearty sandwich for lunch. Located in a former residence, the walls of art are intriguing. Many of the boutique hotels have restaurants with a variety of cuisine. A Long History Dating back to the 1700s, the Todos Santos region was founded by native Guaycura Indians. The name has been preserved by the Guaycura Hotel, located in the historic center of town. It offers a plaque with a bit of the history. The tribe lived a nomadic life until illness caused its near extinction and the Pericú rebellion around 1724, when the mission was founded by the Jesuits. The town flourished until the end of the century, when its water supply disappeared. Water miraculously reappeared in the 19th century, and Todos Santos became a prosperous sugar haven with eight sugar mills. Remnants of the red brick colonial-style structures of the sugar barons are still visible (just visit the Todos Santos Inn). During the 1950s, a mysterious geological event once again caused the water table to drop. The town dried up, eliminating its industry. Then, an odd phenomenon occurred in 1981: The water supply strangely returned. Since then, the town’s population has progressively increased, due to its formation of an agricultural center producing fruits and vegetables and as a cultural and Rogelio Pérez (2) L I F E S T Y L E From top: Todos Santos businesses blend quirk, charm, and artistry; the Santa Rosa mission in Todos Santos reminds visitors of times past. slow down, take time to breathe, relax and do nothing.” Fortunately, there is an abundance of accommodations to fill that need, along with restaurants under palapa roofs with flowing fountains, surrounded by swaying palms and banana trees, lush gardens, and the sound of a Mexican guitar. A Vibrant Locale Todos Santos may be small, but it is big in other ways. There’s plenty to see and do. There are bike tours, painting classes, stargazing, bird-watching, cooking classes, wine tastings, whale sightings, sportfishing, hiking, surfing, kayaking, snorkeling, yoga, and beautiful beaches to visit. There are annual art, music, and wine festivals, as well as an historic home tour. Todos Santos is a walking city. Its small size means you can walk from your hotel to any of the town’s eateries and stroll along the gently sloping cobblestone streets, wandering in and out of fine art galleries and shops that sell Mexican crafts. There are galleries galore, such as the museum-like Galleria de Todos Santos. And you can’t miss Galleria Logan with its welcoming inlaid tile wall. Be sure to stop in for a handmade chocolate orange truffle from Chocolates La Laguna. Don’t leave town without visiting Emporio Gallery & Store at Hotel California (www.hotelcaliforniabaja.com), which was founded by Chinese immigrants in


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